IN A NUTSHELL: Sandankyo (This is a LONG Journal Entry)
My Plan I read about a nifty gorge in
my Hiroshima JET guidebook and decided to go over this three-day weekend because
I wanted to get out and do some touring. Besides, it will only get colder from here on in and I will
have less opportunity to do outdoor things until spring comes along.
Instant Traffic
For the first time ever, I took the Chugoku expressway (a fast tollway that is like an interstate.) I was cruising along great, the road being empty since no one wants to pay the
ridiculously expensive tolls. It was quite a neat drive, especially as I came closer to the mountains.
In fact, it became a series of tunnels at one point with just brief views of mountains in between.
I was one kilometer away from my exit (I know because I had just passed
a sign that said Togouchi - 1 km) when the average speed went from 50 mph to 5 mph, but only in the left
lane (the exit lane.) So I'm thinking
either everyone and their brother is hiking this gorge today (about a 15 minute drive away from the exit)
or it is just a coincidence. When I reached the front, I realized the stop-and-go
traffic was the result of a bottleneck
at the toll gate. Three toll gates were open, but that was not enough to keep traffic flowing smoothly.
Quiz Time:
How much was the toll?
(Note: the section of highway between
Miyoshi and Togouchi was about 74 km - 45 miles -
and took a little less than an hour)
Sandankyo Parking Where I was directed to park by the many uniformed men
standing in the street with flags was less a parking lot and more a ledge between rice fields where if
one backed up too far in one direction, they would plummet over the ledge. (Luckily, I was directed to back
in the OTHER direction while watching a mini-van back up toward the edge across from me.)
A random woman asked me for 400 yen as I was walking out. If I had not recently read on a sign
that the price for parking was 400 yen, I would have thought the request very strange. (As it was, it
was still strange given that the dirt ledge did not really resemble a parking lot - then again, someone
had to pay all these workers guiding everyone.)
The Gorge I followed the crowd up to the train station, where a packed-full train had just
arrived. I think the combination of the fantastic hiking weather (sunny and cool), the three-day weekend,
and the fact that
it is near the height of autumn color viewing, caused the huge crowds. I arrived
at the base of the trail which was complete with a restaurant, gift shop, and a takoyaki stand
(fried octopus on a stick; I passed)
along with quite a lot of families, including elderly, babies, and children.
I looked at the map and noticed that the trail followed
a river upstream until it ended at a lake. According to the map, several waterfalls were en route,
but I could not find any pamphlets to take with me so I walked
across the first bridge trusting to signs and memory. The trail was like a road in Japan: meant to
be a two-way passage, but only really comfortable for someone going in one direction. As a result,
I was stuck behind slow-moving people (including strollers!) a lot as I waited for a chance to overtake.
I prepared for this like a serious hike, taking raingear, snacks, an umbrella, lots of water, and even
extra socks. But, obviously, I had overprepared. My worries about hiking alone, i.e. that if I hurt myself,
I would have trouble getting someone's attention, were completely unfounded. For the first hour, I was never
out of sight of another hiker.
Random Puppet in the Parking Lot; Rocky Cliff Above the Gorge; The Path Through the Gorge
Like Disneyland, but Not in a Good Way About an hour and a half in (after walking
across two pretty nifty hanging bridges over the crystal clear river), I came upon
another parking lot next to the trail, filled with tour buses. Two things crossed my mind.
1. Wow, it would have been
a lot faster to those waterfalls and lake if I parked up here and 2. Wow, it's going to be even MORE crowded after
this. Right on both counts, but about five minutes walk up was a big restaurant, gift shop outpost
where everyone was stopping
to have picnics. I kept walking and the crowds quickly thinned.
I came upon a sign at a fork that said that a two-tiered waterfall was
one way and a three-tiered waterfall was the other way. It seemed to recommend
going to the two-tired one first,
then taking a connecting trail to the third one afterward, so that's what I did. So, about a half hour later,
I suddenly come upon a LINE of people. As far down the trail as I could see, people were standing and
waiting.
I realized that this was a line for a BOAT so one could see the waterfall. A friendly guy had come upon
the line right after I did and said to his partner, "Yep, I guess we're off to the three-tired one."
I asked if there was no other way to see the waterfall on foot. He said that if I put on some fishing waders
and walked, I could do it, but that it would be cold. His gestures were hilarious and his joking
made me feel better.
I could not believe all these people were waiting in a line that looked like it would take AT LEAST forty minutes
just to see a waterfall. Sillier for me since I live within walking distance of one of the tallest waterfalls
in Hiroshima. Anyway, so I turned back and walked over the ridge to find the three-tiered waterfall.
It was a pretty walk but the trail became suddenly very, very crowded. I did eventually make it through the
crowds to the
waterfall (pretty enough I guess) and decided to grab a spot on some rocks and eat lunch. That was quite nice,
but I decided my feet were getting tired and I did not feel like going any further, so I turned and went back,
half tempted to try to grab a bus or taxi at the upper parking lot, but wondered if waiting in that line would
be longer than just walking back myself. It was hard to tell since I had no clue about the bus schedule.
Since the trail was much emptier, I decided to pick up some speed and hike down, which was more
fun than the hike up. Also, I decided to take the middle boat (on the way up there had been a line, so
I walked it instead) which just went across a neat spot along the river. Indeed, it was pretty and there
was even a restaurant that could only be reached by the boat and hanging bridge, but the boatman (who
looked really rugged for such a touristy thing) charged us 300 yen each for the 3-minute ride. Sheesh.
Anyway, I was pretty wiped when I finally got back to the car, but it was really good exercise, great weather
for it and I saw some nice autumn colors.
Autumn Colors; Crowds; Waterfall
* * STUPID THING OF THE DAY * *
After I passed the toll gate and was presented with the fork, telling me which direction to go on
the freeway, I TOOK THE WRONG WAY! I realized about 10 seconds afterward that I had
gone the wrong way but could do NOTHING since it was impossible to turn around
until I reached the next exit, wherever that was. It was very,
very frustrating searching for a break in the barriers (none) and stopping at the fancy rest stops
to see if they gave me an opportunity to change direction (no.)
The Day's Not Over Yet Anyway, after wasting almost half an hour on the
wrong road, I turned around and, finally going the correct direction, realized my phone was ringing.
Very glad there were no cars on the road, I answered it. It was Maruyama-san, calling to invite
me to see Kagura tonight at the autumn festival and to come to her house for dinner beforehand.
A little overwhelmed by the information (Autumn fesitval? Tonight? There's Kagura in Sakugi? You're making
me dinner?) I told her where I was and my estimated time of arrival, which was luckily just enough time
to catch a shower and have time to eat before the Kagura show.
Dinner Confusion I magically remembered where Maruyama-san's house was, even
though the last time I had been there was my very first night in Sakugi. Tired and sore, but clean,
I rang the bell and was greeted by her grandchildren (who I now at least sort of recognized) and
invited in. I was starving and there was lots of food-making going on and lots of food on the table but
no one was eating.
They kept telling me to eat despite that they weren't and I finally ate a bit when Shino (the cute
first grader) ate a rice-ball. They continued urging me to eat, but I thought they were being polite while
either waiting for Maruyama-san to finish scurrying around
or maybe her husband to arrive. Eventually I ate a bit at a time since
I was pretty hungry and they kept telling me to. During that time, I met Maruyama-san's brother
in law and finally figured out who was who in the family. I also learned the origin of Shino's
name -- it is a kind of bamboo flute that her grandfather makes from the bamboo trees that grow on
the hills of Sakugi. I thought that was quite beautiful. Shino, who is amazingly good-natured,
wrote her name in kanji. I was impressed considering she's SIX YEARS OLD.
As the time got later and closer to kagura time and no one else was eating much besides
the occasional bite,
the obvious finally occurred to me. They had already eaten!
Professional Kagura! I confirmed with Maruyama-san that everyone had
already eaten and she
realized immediately why I had been kind of holding back all that time. So I ate some more quicker
(especially of the yummy sukiyaki they had made),
but all the slow eating had made me full. Anyway, we eventually left although the
kagura had started a half hour ago (and I really hope they had not been waiting for ME to finish).
We drove up to a shrine I had never been to. The stage was lit and the Kagura
show (which looked different with adults doing it) was in full swing. We skirted the edge of
the tarp-covered central area (and I recognized my 7th and 8th graders standing in groups - they looked
really different in street clothes) and found other Maruyama family members gathered around a centrally
located kotatsu and joined them. (Kotatsu: a table with a heater under it and a blanket over it so one can warm their feet and
eat simultaneously; I have one at home.)
At first, I thought the kagura was about equal in skill to the impressive 8th graders, but that was
before the demons came on. WHOA! The masks were amazing - they somehow looked evil and sympathetic
at the same time and the exaggerated way the actors walked and did stiff hand motions and
head twitches completely mesmerized me
(though I was pretty tired at this point, so it could have been that.)
I met some new people and Maruyama-san was kind enough to get me water when I didn't want beer,
except that when I went with her to get another cup later, I noticed the ice and water seemed to come
out
of the cooler. I really, REALLY hope I was wrong because - EW - how many hands have been in that water?
Anyway,
I found that despite my fatigue and the fact that I could not understand a single word the people on
stage said, I really enjoyed it! I think this might have been partially because of the story
explanation I was receiving in triplicate: once in Japanese from this woman I had just met,
once from Maruyama-san in Japanglish and once from Maruyama-san's husband in extremely broken
English. Oddly, none of the three seemed to realize the others were doing it. The music was
so loud that all three had to lean in to tell me, so maybe they did not know that all three were
saying the same thing. It was rather funny.
Just Like Kabuki, Except for the Audience Participation I learned that
this Kagura consisted solely of stories
about the Gods and Goddesses. Unlike the stories portrayed by the 8th graders, no humans were involved,
and unlike the 8th graders, all parts here, even female parts, were played by men. So just like Kabuki,
I got to see men in Kimono. Anyway, at one point, a Kitsune (fox) demon came out and attacked another
character, though this battle had more elements of comedy than the others. At one point, the Kitsune
went out into the audience, TOOK A ONE-YEAR-OLD BABY from its mother and brought him up on stage!
At this point, it was nearly midnight and any kids there had to have been exhausted. Anyway,
the good guy managed to take the big, crying baby back from the demon and (eventually) return him to
his family, but I thought that was a bit shocking. The parents did not seem all that traumatized, though.
I left after that story, but not because of any child terror objections, just because I was too tired
to hold my head up.
Some guy told me
I would really enjoy the finale snake story, but I know I would have fallen asleep. Later, as I'm attempting
to back my car out with Maruyama's help, she throws another invitation on me, telling me to come
over at around 1pm
(after I've rested) and watch the continuing festivities of the autumn festival including
Mikoshi-carrying. I was too taken-aback to say much back but I told her
I'd try, despite that all I could think about at that point was sleep, sleep, and sleep, in that order.
Quiz answer: 1900 yen (about $18)